Il Giro Del Bambino- Stages One and Two

Daniel, Joaquin and I took a four day journey to Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre is a Unesco World Heritage site consisting of 5 rugged coastal villages that until the last century we reachable only through cliff clinging footpaths. Today a train also takes siteseers to villages in the province of Liguria on the north eastern side of the Italian peninsula. The hikes between villages is a main attraction.

I figured hiking with our 5 month old baby would be a good traveler adventure. Better than trying to do museums and restaurants. So boarded a train for the 4 hour ride to La Spezia.

Joaquin waking from a nap on the train. Ah European train travel.

STAGE 1: ROME to CORNIGLIA

Rome was hot and sunny but the forecast for Cinque Terre predicted rainstorms. Hiking in a foreign country, with a baby, in the rain. This was no ordinary trip. This was IL GIRO DEL BAMBINO (the Tour of the Baby). A few minutes on a regionale train from La Spezia took us to Corniglia, the middle of the five villages.
Corniglia is perched high on the cliffs. With a baby backpack and a backpack of all our things, we climbed into town. Fortunately, we had reservations at the lovely hotel and restaurant Cecio. We smartly ordered the fresh lobster tagliatelle. Daniel pulled out the cosmopolitian skill of neatly extracting the meat from my lobster. It was beyond delicious. Fresh caught from the sea. Matteo from the hotel even held the baby so I could dig into my food. The house wine was fantastic too.



View from the hotel window. Note Joaquin picked up a few Italian hand gestures.

STAGE 2: CORNIGLIA to VERNASSA

The next day we awoke ready to hike. Except that we awoke to rain. Happily to the sound of rain after a week of the diesel motors sputtering in Rome. But rain none-the-less. And being good parents we knew we could not hike without an umbrella. Corniglia is a very small village and after checking the two small stores (of which one was chiuso), we determined their are no umbrellas for sale. Foiled. The morning's challenge was how to get an umbrella. Noon arrives and we were about to take the train back to La Spezia to buy an umbrella. Just then I spot a coven of umbrellas in the corner of the pizzeria. I realize I must ask the owner if we can borrow an umbrella to protect the bambino. I do not like making unusual requests. But stage two must be completed and it has started to drizzle. So I ask in halting Italian to borrow the l'ombrello for il bambino. And the owner says OK. Now with umbrella in hand we take off for the footpath to Vernazza. The path is steep and the stepping stones are slick from the morning rain.

By the time we start Joaquin is ready for a nap. He doesn't settle easily into his carrier, so we stop to nurse and change him on the path.

When the rain begins in earnest, Daniel carries the umbrello to keep sleeping Joaquin dry. I am amazed by how sure-footed Daniel is as he carries our precious cargo.

A few hours later we see Vernazza. I had read Vernazza was the most picturesque of the towns. I am not disappointed. Vernazza appears to grow on a low promontory that jets into the sea. The houses remind me of beautiful sea barnacles and limpets. Even more impressive, the promontory has been carved into a bridge by the sea.

We have lunch in Vernazza. Buy a few souvenirs.






Then walk to the train station to take the train back to Corniglia. At the train station, Joaquin begins to fuss and can not be consoled. By the time we reach Corniglia just minutes away on the train, he is full blown crying. He will not ride in the backpack. Daniel ties on the Moby wrap carrier and puts Joaquin into it under his fleece jacket.
Joaquin falls asleep as Daniel climbs 382 steps up the mountain to the village.

Back at the hotel, Joaquin does sleep but snuggles and plays lovely under the warm blankets with his mama. We are all happy to be warm and dry. Stage 2 completed.

382 steps with baby in the rain.

Joaquin thinks snuggling with mama is great, hiking in the rain- he's not sure.